Roasted coriander and cumin seeds about to be ground and added to a spicy chickpea dish called Pindi Chana.

I picked up this gorgeous antique mortar and pestle in one of Sri Lanka’s open air markets about eighteen years ago. Solid brass…it weighs a ton. Paul, then-boyfriend-now-husband, and I fled Moscow’s bitter winter for a dose of tropical sunshine in Sri Lanka and the Maldives. On our last day of vacation, he was rightfully shocked when I purchased about ten pounds of spices. My suitcase never quite recovered from the pungent smells, but back in Moscow, my curries were a hit. In hindsight, Paul’s total willingness to put up with my food and antique schlepping was a test of sorts, which he passed with flying colors.

Since then, I can’t tell you how much food we’ve carted around the globe, from gallons of homemade Greek olive oil and feta cheese to endless bags of pecan nuts and cans of pumpkin pie mix. Just last week, when Paul left KL to attend a conference in Washington, D.C. for U.S. Ambassadors from all embassy posts, he had a long shopping list. Despite his busy schedule, he made time to shop at Whole Foods for some dried herbs I requested. In KL, finding high-quality Italian seasoning, tarragon, oregano, and rosemary is difficult…turnover is low, so bottles collect dust on the grocery shelves. On the flip side, we do have fabulously fragrant Chinese spices (I’m in love with Sichuan pepper and five spice powder) and super intense Indian spices (I’ve just discovered dried pomegranate seeds, which add a slightly sour zing to chickpeas and other vegetables, delicious on boiled potatoes, too).

Spice Tip

Never add unroasted spices to curries, stews, dals, raitas, and other dishes. Dry roasting unlocks the flavors. To dry roast whole seeds (cumin, coriander, fennel), use medium, not high, heat and stir or shake the pan constantly. To dry roast ground spices (curry powder, garam masala, cumin, coriander, turmeric), use low heat and stir constantly. Whole and ground spices can also be roasted in oil or butter as part of the initial cooking process.

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